Lamma is an elongated fourteen-square-kilometres of land inhabited by five thousand people, with well-marked paths linking its settlements to small beaches, green hilltops, and pleasant seascapes. Yung Shue Wan is a pretty, tree-shaded village at the northwestern end of the island where the bulk of Lamma’s residents live, and the main ferry terminus. There’s a gloomy, century-old Tin Hau temple here but otherwise nothing to stop you beginning the walk across the island.

Twenty minutes along a good concrete path is Hung Shing Ye, where there’s a tiny, shaded sand beach with barbecue pits, a couple of places to eat and drink, and unfortunately close views of the power station.

The path continues around the beach and up the hill on the other side, before levelling out at a viewing point marked by a Chinese pavilion. Carry on down the hill, past the vast cement works to your left, to some houses, from where sidetracks lead to Lo So Shing, another beach with changing rooms, showers, a snack kiosk and more barbecue pits.

At the end of the main path (around 5km, or 1hr 30min on foot from Yung Shue Wan), Sok Kwu Wan is a fish-farming village and second ferry terminus for Hong Kong Island; floating wooden frames cover the water, interspersed with rowing boats, junks and the canvas shelters of the fishermen and women. There’s another Tin Hau temple here by the main pier, along which Sok Kwu Wan’s seafood restaurants form a line, with outdoor tables overlooking the bay, and large fish tanks set back on the street.

Some restaurants have English menus, but always ask the price first, particularly if you’re choosing your fish straight from the tank.

Walking tracks link Sok Kwu Wan, via the small village of Mo Tat Wan, to spacious Shek Pai Wan beach on Lamma’s southeastern coast - about an hour’s walk in all.

There’s also a trail from Sok Kwu Wan up to the summit of Mount Stenhouse (also known as Shan Tei Tong), 353m up in the middle of the island’s southwestern bulge - it’s a two hour hike each way, with fine views as the reward.

Cheung Chau - “Long Island” - was the stronghold of the Qing Dynasty pirate Cheung Po Tsai.

Along with his forty thousand followers, he terrorized shipping and villages along the adjacent Chinese coast, reputedly hiding his booty in a cave at Cheung Chau’s southern end. After surrendering to government forces in 1810, he was appointed head of the local Chinese navy.

Today, Cheung Chau is the most densely populated of the outlying islands, and its streets and harbour are busy day and night. Walking tracks lead to the requisite beaches and seascapes, but the main attractions are watching the thriving traditional life in the main village, with its fishing boats and stalls, and - as ever - sampling local seafood.

Ferries dock at Cheung Chau Village, where the island’s population and activity is concentrated. The waterfront road hosts a large daily market (busy all day), where fishermen, fruit-and-veg sellers and cultivated-pearl traders rub shoulders. Just beyond the pier, down Tung Wan Road, you’ll see an ancient banyan tree, whose base is often cluttered with makeshift altars.

One block in from the water on San Hing Street, the Pak Tai Temple (free) is dedicated to the “Northern Emperor”, protector against floods.

Inside is an 800-year-old iron sword believed to bring luck to fishermen, and a gilded sedan chair, for carrying the god’s statue during festivals.

The temple is the venue for the vibrant annual four-day Cheung Chau Bun Festival, held to placate the vengeful spirits of those killed by Cheung Chau’s pirates. North of the village, various paths lead up to a hilltop reservoir and views over the whole island.

From the village, crossing east over the narrow middle of the island lands you at the long Tung Wan beach and, around the southern headland, Kwun Yam Wan beach, the best on the island. Alternatively, for a two-hour walk from the village, follow the shore southwest from the ferry pier to a pavilion overlooking the harbour and a landscaped picnic area. Behind this is a side-path down between the rocks onto a small rocky beach and up to a headland covered in large, rounded granite boulders, which has some superb views over the sea on a calm day. The path continues down to Pak Tso Wan beach - small and sandy, though a little grubby - and then into the shady lanes on the village outskirts, which you can follow northeast to Kwun Yam Wan beach.

Peng Chau is a tiny horseshoe shaped blob of land with little obvious attraction beyond some quiet streets. Wing On Street, just back from the pier, is typical: part market, part residential, with an eighteenth century Tin Hau temple, noodle shops, Chinese herbalists and no traffic. Some shops sell hand painted porcelain, a local cottage industry. Tung Wan, the island’s only real beach, is a bit gritty but there are outstanding views of nearby Lantau and shipping lanes from the island’s peak, a fifteen-minute walk up stone steps from the back of town.

Really, though, Peng Chau’s main appeal is a meal at one of its many low-key seafood restaurants, where the food is as good and as cheap as on any of the islands.

Most of the following open daily mid-morning and close by 9pm, according to whether they still have customers. At all alfresco businesses, make sure you fix prices when ordering to avoid rip-offs.

Concerto Inn Cafe

Hung Shing Ye beach, Lamma T2982 1668, Near a small and quiet beach, this hotel restaurant is set on a delightful terrace and serves an eclectic range of Southeast Asian dishes. Mains from $60.

Hong Kee

Cheung Chau waterfront. Waterfront tables overlooking all sorts of small craft, serving delicious garlic-fried prawns, scallops and quick-fried fish pieces. Inexpensive to moderately priced.

Kam Gun

Near the banyan tree, Cheung Chau Village. Daily 7am-noon. Excellent dim sum on the first floor, served in a crowded, noisy Chinese environment - there’s no English sign or menus, but it’s easy to find. Inexpensive.

Lamma Seaview Man Fung Restaurant

Near the pier, Yung Shue Wan, Lamma T2982 0719. Pleasant views from outdoor tables under beach umbrellas. Fresh crab, abalone, and fish from live tanks, plus a long list of budget rice and noodle dishes.

Rainbow Seafood

Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma T2982 8100. Fresh seafood which you pick directly from the tank; along with lightly steamed whole fish, they do masterful deep-fried squid with chillies and salt. Slightly overpriced for what you get, but not expensive.

Tian Ran

Cheung Chau waterfront. Rickety outdoor tables overlooking harbour, where you can wolf down all sorts of desserts - glutinous rice balls, grass jelly, mango and sago drinks - and also staple light meals such as prawn wonton soup. Very inexpensive.